WHAT I ATE: PARIS
It’s intimidating tackling Paris’ food scene when the rich traditions of butter and bistro continually vie against the glamorous temptations of haute cuisine. One moment you’ll be ogling cheeses in a fromagerie as though they were jewels, another gobbling down (maybe for the first time) escargots dripping with garlic and butter with the familiarity of a juicy cheeseburger or savoring the L’Oeuf de Poule at Joel Roubuchon. But the whole point is: NEVER be intimidated. Don’t fret that you must tackle all the “MUST GO” spots your aunt feverishly texted while you boarded your flight. Instead: take your time to discover your haunts. Be spontaneous. Be adventurous.
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Perched on roof terrace of Musee du Quai Branly and designed by French architect Jean Nouveau, is a restaurant worth splurging in, for you will swoon at the sight of the Eiffel Tower sparkling close by. As they themselves say: “it projects its metallic lace on the tablecloths during the day and sets the room alight at night.” But make no mistake this is not a tourist trap: it offers the elegance of contemporary cuisine with a twist from Mediterranean flavors. During our visit Jay and I were lucky enough to be given access outside on the roof terrace!
It doesn’t feel like you’re in Paris…at first.
With a doorman outside channeling Manhattan club vibes, then a swift elevator ascension to a top floor dining room reminiscent of Tokyo (with a menu offering Japanese cuisine) La Plum Rive Droit transports. If the weather permits, take the sensational stairs from the restaurant that lead up to a verdant patio where you’ll think you’ve momentarily side stepped into Miami…until you see the panoramic view. Then it’s ALL PARIS. The nighttime glow of the Church of Saint-Eustache upstages even their eggplant miso:
Sounds like a place Saint Laurent would frequent in the Seventies, but more a sliver of a place on one of my favorite streets in Paris. There’s something practical and romantic about popping in to perch on their barstools for oysters and champagne.
In the heart of the Left Bank since 1932, this cozy bistro serves authentic meat dishes like pot-au-feau, delicate pates and boeuf bourguignon.
For pescatarians comme moi, get the escargots and don’t share avec les carnivores a table.
We met Johann Bouard in St Barths while he was concocting fantastical cocktails at the Eden Roc hotel as their guest bartender.
His devoted and talented wife Elodie had recently redone the hotel bar, and they soon revealed to us the recent launch of a small five stool “lab” for Johann in Paris - which Elodie had outfitted to match her husband's every whim and fancy.
A few months later, we found ourselves climbing up faded carpeted steps behind an unmarked door along the Champs-Elysee.
And behind an unassuming door was My Lab in Paris: part speak-easy of the past, part bar of the future and mostly a portal into Johann's passionate imagination. We had a seat and felt like house guests rather than customers.
Reach out to him on Instagram for an unforgettable experience: My Lab in Paris IG. Tell him we sent you!!
Before we left, Elodie encouraged us to have dinner at the nearby brasserie Thomieux, as she had recently revamped its bar. So, we visited on our last night and what a quintessentially Parisienne place! With its sumptuous red velvet banquettes, Lalique moldings and green lamps, mixed with festively dressed clientele, it felt glamorously timeless instead of touristy. And when we exited out onto the small street at the end of the evening, there was the Eiffel Tower, seemingly so close and sparkling just for us.
Better than any dessert.
